Tree service questions, answered

Yes. The estimate costs nothing and there's no obligation to hire us.

We call back as soon as we can, and urgent and storm requests go to the front of the line. After widespread storm damage, response times are longer for everyone in the area.

Yes, and please do. Photos of the whole tree and anything under it help us give you a more accurate price, sometimes before we even come out.

Big Rapids and the surrounding area: Mecosta County, including Canadian Lakes, Mecosta, Remus, Morley, Stanwood and Paris, plus Reed City and nearby parts of Osceola County.

Ask for a written price that says what's included — cleanup, wood, stump — how they will protect your lawn and structures, and for proof of liability insurance.

It depends heavily on size, access and what the tree could fall on. Small trees in open yards can be a few hundred dollars; large trees over a house can run into the thousands. See the cost guide for typical ranges.

No. We use your information to handle your job. See the privacy page for details.

A small to medium tree in an open yard is often done in a few hours. A large tree over a house, done in sections, can take most of a day. Stump grinding is usually quick once the tree is down.

Some marks from equipment are normal, especially in spring when the ground is soft. We'll talk through how to protect your lawn at the estimate — ground mats, or waiting for firmer ground when that makes sense.

Usually, yes. Ask for the wood to be cut to stove length and left on site. That often lowers the price because there is less to haul.

Sometimes. Frozen ground makes it easier to get equipment in without rutting the yard, and scheduling is easier outside of storm season.

Most mature shade trees do well with a look every three to five years. Young trees benefit from light structural pruning more often while they are developing.

Proper pruning does not. Removing too much at once, topping, or cutting flush against the trunk does. Good pruning removes only what is needed.

Yes. One-sided clearance pruning is common. We'll balance it as much as we reasonably can.

Typically several inches below grade, which is enough to mow and seed over. Ask for deeper grinding if you plan to plant shrubs or build there.

Most species won't resprout once the stump is ground. Some, like poplar and willow, can send up root suckers for a season or two; mowing them off usually ends it.

Yes. Stump grinding is commonly done on its own, including old stumps that have been there for years.

It depends on how widespread the damage is. After a big storm everyone in the area is busy, and jobs where a tree is on a house or blocking the only way out go first. Mark your request urgent and include photos.

Only if it is safe and the tree is no longer on the roof. Never get on a roof with a tree resting on it.

In many cases your own insurance handles damage to your property, regardless of where the tree came from. If the tree was clearly dead and your neighbor had been told, that can change things. Ask your agent.

Usually by the acre or by the job, depending on how dense the growth is, the size of the trees, and whether stumps must come out. A site visit is almost always needed for a firm price.

Often, yes. Frozen ground can actually make it easier to get heavy equipment in without rutting the site.

There isn't a general free program, but it's worth calling your local Commission on Aging or community action agency — some run home repair or assistance programs that occasionally cover hazardous trees. Your utility may also remove trees that are a hazard to its lines at no charge.

Usually only when a tree damages a covered structure. A dead tree that hasn't fallen is typically the homeowner's cost. See the storm damage page for details.

For a large or expensive job, yes. For a small job, one fair quote from a company with good reviews and insurance is usually fine.